Monday, April 1, 2013

Installing engine and transmission

When reinstalling, we decided to do the engine and transmission together as a single unit.  I also have my portable engine hoist loaned out to a friend, so we used a chain hoist this time.  The hoist is on a trolley that runs along an overhead steel beam, so the hoist and engine can be moved freely from side to side.   That, coupled with rolling the car forward and backward gives good maneuvering for the job.

Our first step was to hoist up the engine and remove the engine stand, then install the flywheel, new clutch, and mate up the transmission.  Here's the resulting assembly hanging from the hoist ready to install.

Engine/transmission assembly ready for installation
 The whole assembly is very long with the overdrive appendage adding an extra 16" or so, so it's a tight fit getting it into the car.  The back needs to be tipped way down initially, then slowly leveled out as it goes in.  We used a floor jack under the overdrive to control the leveling of the assembly as it went in.

Engine inching it's way in
And finally, here it is settled into place and secured at the front motor mounts, and the floor jack still holding up the back of the transmission.

Engine in place

Engine in place
Next we temporarily installed the transmission cross brace to hold up the transmission without the aid of the floor jack.  That made the car movable so we could get it back up on the hoist to button up the underside, including proper replacement and fitting of the transmission mount.

Here it is up on the lift secured in place.

Shinny motor peeking through

Everything in place
Before quitting for the day, we buttoned up a few more things including installing the drive shaft, the clutch cable, speedometer cable, and the exhaust head pipe.

2 comments:

ry james said...

My fuel pump died on my 1971 volvo 142e. I can't find another one because its the 3 port pump. Ive had a thought of running the return line back to the fuel rail to let it flow freely without building up pressure.

If you know of a pump or any ideas or info , please let me know! I want my 142 on the road!!!

Peter Hayden said...

In the two port pump, all they did was internally connect the fuel intake and the over-pressure return ports into one. So any over-pressure fuel coming out of the third port just gets combined with the fuel being drawn from the tank.

To adapt a 2-port pump all you need to do is cap off the return line going back to the tank. I've heard a number of people have adapted a Walbro (I think that's the name) generic pump. It just needs to be able to develop about 25 PSI to properly pressurize the fuel injection system. I actually don't recall the exact pressure, but if you check what the adjustment spec is on the pressure regulator, and get a pump that can develop a few PSI more than that, you should be good.

If your original pump is leaking fuel around the electrical connector, I can pass on a tip from a guy who had been rebuilding fuel systems parts for years (not me). He said to clean up the metal case all around the connector really well, and clean it all off with alcohol to degrease it. Then epoxy all around the joint between the connector housing and the pump body. I've never tried it, but that's how he said he fixes them.

Good luck with the car!